Coastal Connecticut: Stonington, Mystic’s Tony Neighbor

Coastal Connecticut: Mystic’s Tony Neighbor Mystic may be magical, but follow Route 1 north along the rocky coastline of southeastern Connecticut, and you’ll stumble on pure enchantment in the “upper-crust” boro of Stonington.

Here, in this charming, serene coastal town, all roads seem to lead to the Long Island Sound —and you can glimpse spellbinding views of the water in all directions. Classic 18th and 19th century light-hued clapboard buildings line many of the village streets in typical old New England style. Massive pillars front some of the statelier homes. Pink roses tumble over white picket fences and arbors, behind which grow meticulously groomed gardens laced with crunching gravel paths. The aesthetic is far from accidental. In an effort to maintain authenticity, boro codes dictate everything from the type of windows and doors to paint colors and fences. Reportedly, one homeowner recently rebelled against having to have every detail approved, and painted his house black! But there was no longer any evidence of that when I visited. And however frustrating some of the boro codes may be for homeowners, the results seem well worth it.

Stonington lends itself to a relaxed walking tour, and as you saunter along, admiring the homes, you’ll note many architectural details such as widows’ walks, dentil moldings, and wavy glass panes in 12 over 12 windows. A number of the carefully restored dwellings bear historical plaques with the names of previous owners, many of whom were involved in maritime ventures. The Charles Stanton House, on the corner of Wall and Main Streets, bears a plaque that says Stanton was a prosperous shipmaster who served in the war of 1812. Across the street stands the 1787 Capt. Amos Palmer House, whose plaque boasts “Whistler’s Mother and children lived here.”  The sign on the 1770 Gilbert Fanning House proclaims it was once a tavern, and a lovely house built in1771 once belonged to William Fellows, a ship’s carpenter. The Old Custom House remains a point of interest as does the Lighthouse Museum, which displays an array of the distinctive pottery Stonington produced in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Wander down Water Street, the boro’s main thoroughfare, and browse the fine galleries and antiques shops. Stop for a bite to eat at one of Stonington’s highly acclaimed restaurants. Grab a bowl of “chowdah” at the Water Street Café or savor Portuguese style littleneck clams over linguini at Noah’s, which is also a popular breakfast spot; many trek here for their Irish style oatmeal made with steel-cut oats.

But follow Water Street literally to the end of the road, and you’ll discover Stonington’s piece de resistance: tiny duBois Beach,  a small curve of white sand with a sweeping, panoramic view of Long Island Sound.  If you plan to spend some time on the beach during the summer, be sure to arrive early in the day to secure a primo spot. As you gaze out past rocky jetties to sailing vessels and fishing boats of various sizes, you’ll likely be rubbing elbows with some of Manhattan’s elite who have secured Stonington’s finest specimens as their homes-away-from-homes.