February 05, 2007
Souvenirs on the cheap (the best flea market shopping around): Part III, Israel
Dark metal stamped in the shape of a hand and enameled blue to deflect evil; three-dimensional interlocking stars set with bright stones to protect the wearer; ancient writings scratched on silver pomegranates to cast secret magic--If you know on which tables, in which stalls, under which old stone walkways, you can find mystical souvenirs like these in Israel. Here's where to conjure them:
The Bedouin Market, Be'er Sheva
The capital of the Negev (the southern, desert part of the country) is host to this Thursday market. While a quick walk-through seems to offer only rugs, pillows, the odd pot and pan and packaged doll, a closer look will reveal tables of metal and silver jewelry including enormous tribal pieces with dangling ancient coins and glass gems; hamsas (hand-shaped pieces intended to keep away the evil eye), and rings cast with prayers said to bring good luck or safety. Venture further into the market, and you'll see Bedouin women dressed head to toe in ink-black dress and veil, selling woven belts and camel leads in a shocking spectrum of brights: hot fuchsia, peacock blue, intense green, and all with tiny golden beads stitched throughout. The women usually won't bargain, but their prices are fair and their wares, with their wool tassels and bells, are well made by hand.
The Arab Market, Jerusalem
Deep in the old city, through passageways of Jerusalem stone, the Muslim quarter houses vendors with jingling, flower-vibrant scarves covered in coins for belly dancing; shining silver candelabras; necklaces shivering with graduated lines of beads; inlaid drums and chess sets and sinuous hookahs (nargilahs). Be sure to bargain here--it's expected, and can take down the price as much as half (obviously, this depends on the item and the price. Five dollar items aren't game for bargaining unless you're buying many, while $500 items usually have haggling room built into the price). Be sure to stop for pitas and spreads (hummus, baba ganoush, tahina) for an authentic taste of the culture.
Shouk HaCarmel (The Carmel Market), Tel Aviv
This is the place to buy almost anything imaginable: Fresh fish, furniture, knock-off clothing and antiques barely scratch the surface of possibilities. Stop for a fresh falafel, cup of coffee or sabra (cactus fruit) from a food stall while you're making your way through the spread. But beware: "If you find a Nike T-shirt there," notes a native,"don't expect it to be Nike. Expect it to be made by the guy down the street."
Also don't expect the silver coins or mystical pendants to necessarily be as ancient as the salespeople claim. But as for the magic, I've found it tends to work best when the price is right.





Members' Comments