Thoughts On How To Choose Top Restaurants

How do you select a top restaurant when visiting a major city?  This can be difficult especially if eating at a $75/person+ restaurant is something you can afford to do only once and a while. Are you really getting a top restaurant with excellent, delicious, and beautifully prepared dishes or are you paying top dollar for a celebrity chef’s new restaurant in a chichi neighborhood?

I wrestled with this question when selecting restaurants for a night out in New York City with a good friend of mine and fellow Foodie. On most of his visits, I try to take him to top ethnic restaurants in Chinatown, Little Korea, or just a favorite sushi bar. But this time we decided to go top shelf. I really wanted to try Esca, Mario Batali’s seafood restaurant but we couldn’t get a table at a reasonable hour. So we decided to try out NY’s trendy meat market district and stopped in Morimoto’s and Jean-George’s Spice Market.

Both of these restaurants are trendy. Dress ‘hip’ if you want to fit into the crowd. You’ll need to call in a reservation a few days in advance (or longer) if you want to eat in the main restaurant at a reasonable hour. Walk-ins can order a la carte in their lounges. Both restaurants have stunning decors and excellent service.  Also, both restaurants have chef’s tasting menus that are good values, but you’ll have to order a la carte if you want the more interesting items on the menu.

As a Foodie, I had a hard time selecting my dinner options. Seriously. At Spice Market, are the Vietrnamese Spring Rolls really that interesting and superior to the ones that I love at Nha Trang? At Morimoto’s, is the eel avocado roll that much better than what I would get at a good (but less pricey) sushi bar?

I ponder this question. When I look up reviews on these restaurants, I’ll read twenty that love the food and another twenty that think the restaurant is beautiful but the food is just mediocre.  I think there are two basic issues. First, these restaurants engineer their recipes to insure that they are highly reproducible, can be prepared very efficiently, and can be sold in volumes with good profit margins. Now I can’t fault restaurants for this, but the human touch is missing from these recipes and presentation. Can top restaurants allow their chefs a little creative licensing when preparing the dishes and plating?

The other problem is the menu itself. Chefs design their menu for general consumption which often means selecting recipes that are highly recognizable. But there are always hidden gems on the menu. At Spice Market, they have a silken tofu entrée served pad-thai style. I forget the exact name, but you shouldn’t have a hard time finding it on the menu. I thought it was awesome and more interesting than the cod that we ordered. Is this item tailored to foodies? Maybe. But finding the real standouts on the menu is challenging.

I now try two approaches to finding top restaurants. If it’s a friend’s recommendation, I ask them what to order and gauge their enthusiasm. I also look at the menu. If I see many items that I’d like to order, it passes the test.

Bourdain's Nasty Bits

I just finished reading Anthony Bourdain's The Nasty Bits. It's a bit 'last year', but I'm a big fan so better late than never. If you're a foodie (or aspire to be one) and love to travel, then this is a great read.

I'm not going to give away Bourdain's secrets and tell you his favorite restaurants. He did the traveling, the eating, and the writing so he deserves the proceeds. Plus you'll enjoy his colorful descriptions and no BS opinions on food, living, and his more than occasional rants on what is wrong with America.

Boudain tells you about his New York City including his favorite dives, delis, and classics. He tells you what Vegas restaurants are worth visiting and others that are weak and uninspiring. He describes authentic eating experiences in Singapore, Vietnam, China, and Brazil. Then there are the chapters that fully document his meals and dining experiences at Masa in New York and El Bulli in Barcelona, restaurants that most of us will never get the chance to visit. 

He mixes all this in with stories from the road, essays on celebrity chefs, and other things that annoy him enough to write about - anything from American fast food to the good and bad of Raw Food. You'll probably learn a thing or two, be entertained, and even get inspired to try eating something new or travel somewhere different. A fun read if you love food and restaurants.

Underground Restaurants San Francisco, New York, Portland

When Californian Matthew Smith (name has been changed to protect privacy) first stumbled across Jeremy Townsend's "underground" dinner parties, he wasn't looking for a secret locale for a great meal. He was looking for a date. Under the "misc romance" section on Craigslist, he found a mysterious but intriguing ad. In a basement apartment in Oakland, Joe Townsend, a chef, and his brother, Jeremy, a poet, began inviting 5-30 strangers to their home to sit on pillows on the living room floor, eat a gourmet meal for a much smaller fee than what you'd pay for it in a restaurant, and make new friends. Oh, and there was impromptu entertainment as well: Mad Libs, haiku reading, dancing, music--a salon of sorts. This trend was also occurring in New York, Portland, and Hong Kong -- where a password and a scant amount of money could buy you more fun and food than a stodgy restaurant. Maybe you'd even meet the love of your life.

But then the word got out and health inspectors began cracking down on these illegal "culinary speakeasies." With no health code to comply with, the argument was that the public could potentially get sick at these loosey goosey supper clubs. People like Jeremy (who's evolving parties are called "The Ghetto Gourmet") had to go guerrilla--changing venues unpredictably throughout the Bay Area's lofts and art spaces, covering their tracks. Today, however, Ghetto Gourmet is legit, and therefore some may argue, less coveted. You simply log onto their website at www.theghet.com and sign up for the next event (a dinner might cost $50 and the entertainment's planned). They've also expanded to include locations in New York City's fashionable Tribeca neighborhood, Chicago, and California wine country. But there's still a sense of surprise. The chef's change (they've even had the likes of Chez Panisse chefs attend) the menus are always different (I saw an all vegetarian one coming up), and you won't know everyone you're breaking bread with. The same morphing of illegal to on the up and up also occurred at one of the first underground restaurants on the scene--"Ripe" in Portland, Oregon. Though it started as a twice monthly $20 "living room" supper club for a handpicked, in-the-know crowd, it's now a bona fide restaurant, albeit a good one.

Though authentic underground dining does still exist, it's tough to find these secret places. Advertising on sites like Craigslist could set them up for fines and lawsuits. The seven degrees of separation MO (kind of like TripConnect!) applies best--knowing someone who knows someone who knows someone--is just about the only way these days to get an invite. If you manage to snag one, you'll have to weigh the potential risks (how do I know the food was properly refrigerated, cooked, handled, etc.) vs. the perks (a homey, relaxed, adventurous evening that'll make for a great story).

Even been to--or hosted--an underground dinner? If so, share your stories with us! We promise not to make you give up your connection.

Australian Olive Oil

Recently at the major book publishing company I work for, some gourmet gifts were raffled off in conjunction with the launch of a new cookbook. I won one of them: a "limited release" bottle of Extra Virgin, unfiltered Australian olive oil called "Yellingbo Gold." I was informed that the Australian variety are the latest trend in olive oils, and are particularly suitable to buy when the Italian ones are "off season."

I didn't know that olive oils had a season, but they do--the closer the sale date to the time they're harvested and picked and pressed, the fresher and better they are. Makes sense. (I admit, I tend to just grab what's on sale at the supermarket.) Since the pressing season for most Italian olive oils are from October to late January, this means that if you're buying in late winter, spring, and summer, you're not getting the optimal product. Who knew? Enter Australian olive oils; their season runs counter to Italy's.

If you're heading to Australia and are wondering where to get the best ones, they're mainly produced in South Australia, and the southwestern corner of Western Australia (the Moore River region, Victoria, South Eastern Queensland, to name a few). The varietals grown in Australia are basically the same as those made anywhere else in the world (such as in Tuscany, Spain, and Israel). Look for the freshest bottles--those made within the last 12 months (the labels should indicate this). And according to the Australian Olive Oil association, beware of claims such as "this has been judged as one of the top 10" in Australia. That claim can only be made if every Australian olive oil was exhibited at the show in question.

You may hear the term "colonial" or "feral" used to describe certain Australian olive oils. These oils are harvested from leftover trees from very old groves abandoned in the 19th century after subsidized European imports hit the market and sunk the Australian one. These colonials, which are said to to be the most robust oils, are found in Southern Australia and often are blended with grove oils to lighten their pungency.

As for my bottle, the label says it smells of sweet apples and sun-ripened tomatoes, leading to a rich and creamy palate, redolent of nuts and caramel and a subtle, lingering peppery finish. I haven't tried it yet, but given that description, it sounds like something I'd pop open this summer and drizzle over sliced ripe Jersey tomatoes, or with fresh peaches and a nutty Spanish cheese. (If I can't wait that long, my local farmer's market is still selling a wide variety of very tasty apples.)

Since Australian wines are passe these days (we all know how good they can be), here's the latest secret from down under in which to indulge your gourmet snob appeal and your taste buds. Even if you're not planning a trip to Australia, expect to see more of these oils on specialty food store shelves here in the states.

South African Ostrich Wings!

A friend of mine who is lucky enough to tote his wireless work around the world, has set up temporary shop in South Africa for the last few months. While he sends great photos of wildlife caught in spontaneous moments of hilarity (a baby bamboo raiding his glove compartment and making off with his lunch), poignancy (a pride of lions walking at nightfall with a baby lion), and terror (a literal army of angry-looking ostriches headed towards his lens--see picture!), I've really been on him to give me some insight into the food scene. Though he's been living mostly in Cape Town and its environs, he hasn't been doing much bar and restaurant hopping. However, he did mention one restaurant--and some dishes--that stood out to him.

In Mossel Baby, a pretty low-key waterfront town along the "garden route" (a 200-mile stretch of beach towns on the Western Cape of South Africa that attract both tourists and Cape Town denizens), he claims to have eaten his best meal at Jazzbury's restaurant. Before I get to the food, I'll say that the place does indeed look pretty jazzy. It's in an old stone house on the town's main street (rather rustic), but inside is thoroughly elegant with burnt orange walls, hardwood floors, sumptuous drapes, high ceilings, and fine table linens. There's an outdoor patio for alfresco dining and, as the name hints, live jazz.

The restaurant specializes in a typical South African meat: ostrich. Though this bird (that does not taste like chicken!)can sometimes be seen here on menus in the U.S., my friend claims that the Ostrich wings are a South African specialty, and I've never come across them here. Marinated with oyster sauce, chili, ginger, honey, and char-grilled, he says they are finger-lickin' good here. Other ostrich dishes on the menu include fried ostrich liver singed in butter and brandy, ostrich carpaccio and Biltong (dried, cured meat), ostrich fillet, and a mixed ostrich grill (sausage, fillet, liver, and wings)!

Though the wings were his hands down favorite, he also mentioned the Karoo lamb shank, marinated and slow-cooked with sun-dried prunes, grated ginger, and Calitzdorp port and the Cape Brandy Pudding (the only South African dessert he's truly enjoyed). What also seems interesting about this restaurant is its wine list, featuring bottles from the Klein Karoo winelands, an area that specializes in port production (hence the generously port-marinated dishes on the menu I suppose).

But lest we not forget we're in a beach town, there's lots of seafood too, like line fish of the day and black prawns in peri-peri sauce.

If you're planning a trip to South Africa anytime soon, and think you'll do the "Garden Route," this restaurant seems like a good introduction to regional specialties with gourmet preparation. Oh, and FYI, my friend also claims that the best part of the garden route are the 10 miles inland; most beautiful, unspoiled, and tourist-free.

Automat Redux

Leave it to the Japanese to create (or, in this, case) revitalize a trend. For people of a certain age, the automat induces keen nostalgia. Begun in the 20s, during the depression, and peeking in the 50s, it was a precursor to fast-food chains—but with more heart and soul.

Begun by a Philly company called Horn and Hardart, automats gained popularity in New York City, where the busiest folks wanted quick, but comforting lunches for not a lot of money. They featured little glass windows with prepared foods, and coin slots (like a vending machine but serving real food—notably mac & cheese, creamed spinach, and pie available for a quarter). Many were housed inside deco-styled booths, and had cafeteria-like seating areas where you could gobble down your purchase, or linger over it for hours.

But with the rise of fast-food chains, automats disappeared—until recently (though some still operate in the Netherlands). Back to the Japanese: two entrepreneurs have opened a retro-hip version in New York's trendy east village called Bamn!, where the automat spits out hot comfort food, but with an Asian twist (deep fried mac & cheese, mini burgers, pork buns, spam-topped sushi—all for about $2.) It's particularly popular with late-night partiers (an alternative to a slice of pizza on a drunken walk home). Their success is rumored to lead to more openings in other cities (considering the widespread success of Chinese bubble tea Establishments, I believe it).

Would an automat renaissance thrive, or are we already too saturated with quickie eating establishments? If savvy companies like Bamn! can continue to think up interesting twists on fast-food, or maybe even make offer healthier or more homemade choices, it seems like its shelf life could be a long one.

Come across any new automats in your travels? Remember one from the past? Send along your comments at this blog post.

Taiwanese Street Food

Right after I graduated from college—the year before I moved to New York City—I spent nine months
in Taiwan teaching English at a University and studying Chinese. I have incredible memories from that time (including that of a street dog, "Pui Pui," I rescued and brought home with me, who just recently passed away after 10 years living the life of luxury with my mother in Florida), and of wonderful friends and students. But what sticks in my mind most from that era of my life is the food. And not just any food, but the street food in particular. I've enjoyed Chinese, Thai, Singaporean, Japanese, Hong Kong street food, but I still think that Taiwan can blow them all out of the water when it comes to on-the-go outdoor nibbling.

In Taiwan, the night market is the quintessential social gathering (just about every town or city has one) for students, groups of young friends and couples, and families to stroll come nightfall and browse racks of clothing, jewelry, and other miscellany while basically stuffing their faces on dozens of delicious snacks. Ok, some of those snacks take awhile to warm up to—and some may never quite appease your western palate (like chou dou fu, literally "stinky tofu"—basically, fermented tofu that's fried and smells literally like vomit). Strangely, the taste is mild, but most of us wai gwo ren (foreigners) can't get over that pungent odor.

But stinky tofu aside, there are some morsels that I'll never forget, and can't seem to ever quite find the exact replica of back home (even in Chinese neighborhoods). One of my absolute favorites was crispy fried squid (think calamari), doused with Chinese five-spice, chili peppers, and grilled Chinese basil (somewhat similar to our basil, yet elusively different). I'm sure it was that indigenous basil-like green that raised this one to regal snack status.

Another favorite: "Tako"—stolen from the Japanese they say, it's baby octopus, splayed flat, grilled in barbecue sauce, and skewered on a stick. Tender, sweet/sour flavored from the sauce—it was a must-have at least a few times a week.

Who doesn't like dumplings? Taiwan has great ones, but especially yummy are the soup dumplings. Basically, you bite into them, and all this gingery soupy heaven fills up your mouth.

Scallion pancakes are classic favorites: oily dough smothered in scallions, they're as addictive as potato chips. Oyster pancakes, on the other hand, may take a little time to get used to, but once you do, you'll be hooked. They're made with egg, oyster, a green leafy veggie, some starch, and are fried up. The consistency is a little gooey, which can be off-putting, but they're so flavorful, especially when they're covered with this sweet and tangy red sauce (that's kind of like the Taiwanese equivalent of ketchup). And Dao shao mien are traditional, perfectly tender, not overcooked,  hand-cut noodles.

Some people get hooked on the grilled chicken's feet, but I couldn't see the appeal. They look funny, and there's virtually no meat. You just suck on these scrawny-looking tootsies. Ditto with the periwinkles. There's meat inside (though scant bits since the shell is no more than a half-inch-long) that you suck out which has been steamed with chili peppers. (Apparently, periwinkles are a classic component of the French Grand Aioli, aka: garlic mayonnaise). Other oddities: eggs boiled in tea water (I did eventually acquire a taste for these) and little candied tomatoes on a stick (kids love 'em). The Chinese and the Taiwanese regard the tomato as a fruit (which technically it is) and therefore accompany it with sweets. It's not uncommon to find a dessert with tomatoes on it. That's a real stretch for me.

But I do recommend the fried glutinous rice balls made from yams (just slightly sweet) and char-roasted ears of corn.

Though, as I said, I haven't found perfect renditions here in the states, there are places where you can get a feel for Taiwanese street food. In New York, Sweet & Tart on Mott Street in Chinatown bills itself as a dim sum restaurant, but it's got more than few decidedly Taiwanese delicacies on the menu. And though I rarely make it to Flushing, Queens, that's the real hotbed of Taiwanese immigrants, so chances are you're bound to find some winners there.

I hear that in downtown San Rafael, California, "Tsing Tao Eric's" does justice to some Taiwanese street snacks: like spicy popcorn chicken and grilled five-spice sausage.

Also, one to check out: Taiwan Restaurant in the Inner Richmond neighborhood of San Francisco Supposedly, they have great scallion pancakes and Taiwanese spare ribs, among many other Taiwanese-style and Chinese offerings.

But really, go visit Taiwan; besides great food, it's where all the best ancient Chinese art is housed (much of it was stealthily moved out of China during the Communist Revolution before Mao's Red Guard got a chance to destroy it), the people are friendly, and there's beautiful countryside and natural wonders to visit when you're tired of shopping and dining in the fast-paced, crowded cities.
Before you do, visit TripConnect's Taiwan page for more info from other travelers and recommended
reading.

Winter Food Festivals

Oyster Festivals are over, and the famed Aspen food fest isn't until summer. But there's no dearth
of culinary escapades this winter.

If you want to get to the South Beach Food & Wine Festival (Feb 21-24) you'd better get it in gear and start booking tickets. It's a hot one, presented by Food & Wine Magazine, and featuring celeb chefs like Bobby Flay, Emeril Lagasse, Eric Ripert, Rachel Ray, Alton Brown, Giada DeLaurentiis, Florence Tyler, and Martha Stewart, among others. Events are selling out fast. Weekend passes are gone, but there are specific daily programs and after-parties that are still open.

If you miss the boat on that one, you may still have a shot at getting to sunny Florida to hit the Naples Winter Wine Festival from January 26-28 (but for considerably more money). Though not a TV Food Network roster of faces, its chefs are just as esteemed: Daniel Boulud, Dan Barber from New York's Blue Hill, Tom Colicchio from Craft in New York, Wolfgang Puck, Emeril (he's a busy guy this winter), Tony Mantuano from Chicago's Spiaggia, Mark Ladner from Del Posto in NYC, Michael Cimarusi from Providence in LA (and the list goes on, including star vintners). Vintner dinners take place in private, elegant Naples homes, at the Ritz-Carlton, and various golf resorts. The event is based on an auction of fine wines to benefit a children's charity.

More down to earth perhaps is the Twin Cities Food & Wine Experience in Minneapolis: "A Winter Combo Festival" that lets you taste and learn from over 300 food, wine, and kitchen gadgetry exhibitors including more than 400 wines and 80 restaurant and gourmet food professionals. Private Wine Seminars are also given and they have fun special events like the Grand Red Tasting, Girls' Night Out, and Private Wine Lunches. Besides great local chefs, national ones like Rick Bayless and Tim Scott will be on hand as well.

The Washington DC International Wine and Food Festival on February 21-24, sells one- and two-day grand tasting tickets for $65-$85. There's a Master Culinary Stage with chefs like Jeff Black from Black Restaurant Group and Noriaki Yasutake from Perry's, as well as guided tastings and seminars like "An Exploration of Port, Chocolate, and Cheese with David Hunt from Hunt Cellars or New Zealand Pinot Noir with Michael Franz (individually-priced).

I know I plugged Iceland recently in my TripConnect Romance Blog, but I failed to mention another reason to go there in winter. The Food and Fun Festival from February 21-25. This is for the gastronomic Viking (all you Anthony Bourdain types) who don't get squeamish at the idea of sampling hunks of shark meat, fish chins, or puffin. This festival is essentially a competition among international chefs who partner up with a Reykjavik restaurant or the week and prepare special menus using only national ingredients (Icelandic lamb, seafood, naturally-grown vegetables (who knew it was possible there?) all washed down by that crystal-clear Icelandic spring water.

Farmer's Market Winter Wonders

Who doesn't love a good farmer's market--especially in the summer when those juicy tomatoes and luscious, no-sugar-needed strawberries are in season? But then winter comes, and we start to lose our enthusiasm for those poor, hard-working farmers. That's unfortunate, because these markets (whether East Coast, West Coast, or the Midwest) still have plenty of delicious, healthy produce and meats to cook up yummy meals all season. In fact, it's when most green leafy vegetables are at their sweetest.

Probably one of the most famous farmer's markets is the The Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market in San Francisco. They have a great website and one of its best features is a seasonality chart that gives you the produce highlights for whatever month you're shopping. Just to give you a sneak preview, if you live in that area, or are visiting, some things to look out for over the next few months include  Dungeness crab, fresh dates, and pineapple guavas. Oh, those lucky west-coasters. Speaking of lucky west-coasters and Dungeness crab, I recently received the latest blog from a friend who's moved to Seattle and who's known for throwing fabulous dinner parties. I noticed that his Christmas party menu included a Dungeness crab dip with artichoke hearts. Unfortunately, he didn't share the recipe, but I'm sure you could improvise. 

Over here on the east coast, my neighborhood farmer's market is still faithfully showing up with beautiful root veggies like parsnips, turnips, rutabaga, and beets, as well as all varieties of winter squashes and organic greens. A simple, tasty way to prepare any of these greens (be it swiss chard, beet greens, turnip greens) is to submerge them in a pot of boiling water for about a minute, and then toss them in some fresh lemon juice, garlic, salt and pepper. It makes a great side for a wintry meal like pork tenderloin, lamb, or a juicy steak. Other things to look for include clementine mandarins, kumquats, gold chard, chestnuts, and scarlet turnips.

One of the farmers who comes each weekend to our Inwood Farmer's Market on 207th Street in New York City (from Hawthorne Valley Farms; they and many other farmers also go to the Union Square Greenmarket on 14th Street) shared an uncommon winter recipe: a Celeriac Stir-Fry. Celeriac is a white fleshed root in the celery family, and not many people besides chefs typically think of using it. His recipe calls for 2 medium-sized leeks, cleaned, tops removed, and sliced thinly; 1 3-4" celeriac, with outside fiber removed and cut into small, nickel-thin chunks; 2 medium-sized carrots, sliced into rounds; 1 red bell pepper, diced; 1/4 lb green curly kale, torn into small pieces, 1/2 cup almonds or sunflower seeds; oil for sauteing (he prefers coconut oil); salt to taste, water as necessary.  Put oil in pan on medium-high heat, add leeks, celeriac and salt. Stir constantly for about 10 minutes. Add carrots and cook for 5 minutes, then peppers and nuts or seeds (keep stirring), then add kale. Add more oil or water if veggies start sticking to the pan. Cook until the kale is bright green and serve over warm basmati rice, quinoa, or your favorite grain.

I also talked to chef Matthew Weingarten from Savoy restaurant in New York City (to read my review of the restaurant click here) and he shared their parsnip soup recipe (parsnips are at their peak now he says). Here's what you'll need:

2 Tbs butter
3 Tbs olive oil
4 peeled and diced parsnips
1 diced onion
1 bunch of sliced leeks
2 cups white wine
1 quart milk
1 cup cream
1 quart water
sachet of thyme, cinnamon, and cardamom
splash of Tabasco

Here's what you do: Sweat the vegetables in butter and olive oil and season well with salt and pepper.
Deglaze with white wine. Reduce by half. Add sachet. Add milk, cream, and water. Cook until all vegetables are very soft. Remove from heat, and remove sachet. Puree in blender until smooth. Adjust seasoning with lemon juice, Tabasco and more salt if needed. Can be served as is or with additional cooked leeks and sauteed wild mushrooms.

No matter where you live, there's probably a farmer's market closer than you think. Check out the government's web site which includes a map of farmer's markets all over the country!

Happy winter feasting. I'm off to the grocery store (can't buy wine at the farmer's market!) to buy ingredients to make Julia Child's recipe for Coq au vin (chicken with wine). A friend just made it and gave it the thumbs up.

Best U.S. Raw Bars

When the weather gets chilly, I always get a craving for raw seafood--oysters in particular. It's good timing, because fall and winter is when they're at their freshest (waters are generally colder and there's less risk of bacteria). That's where the rule of thumb: only eat oysters in months that have letter "Rs" in them originates. (Hmmm, I wonder about April though . . . .)

Here's a random national sampling of some places that boast the best bivalves:

San Francisco: Hog Island Oyster Company
In the touristy ferry building, oyster-lovers (not just the fanny-pack wearing, souvenir-buying set), settle into seats at the U-shaped bar and suck down everything from "Sweetwaters", "Kumamotos" (tiny and sweet), salty, plump "Atlantics," and Manila clams. The oysters are said to be plucked daily from Tomales Bay or flown in fresh from Washington state and British Columbia. Fans rave about the
$1 oysters and $3.50 pints of beer (many local brews) at Happy Hour on Mondays and Thursdays.   

Seattle: Shuckers at the Fairmont Hotel
Fairmont hotels are known for many fine amenities, but oysters, to my knowledge, had never been among them. Apparently, I was out of the loop. Besides hotel guests, local professionals are said to pop in for lunch and the popular happy hour. Six varieties of local and eight imported are known for their freshness and go down supposedly well with a Martini. Besides oysters on the half-shell, patrons also go ga-ga for the classic rendition of Oysters Rockefeller.

Miami: The River Oyster Bar
It's hard not to find good seafood in this city, but locals say that this place raises the bar (the raw bar, that is) to a loftier level. "Snow Creeks" from the Straits of San Juan de Fuca, "Deer Creeks" from Washington's Puget Sound, "Coromandels" from New Zealand--these are no run-of-the-mill oysters. And then there's the littleneck clams, Florida stone crabs, ceviches, and a wine-list made to coordinate with your briny, sweet, crisp, or salty seafood selection.

New York City: Grand Central Oyster Bar
Yes, there's Pearl Oyster Bar. Then came Mary's Fish Camp. But long before these trendy, tiny, albeit tasty seafood restaurants featuring raw bars hit the downtown scene, the stolid subterranean Grand Central Station Oyster Bar had been serving up its more than 30 succulent varieties of on-the-shell slurpy treats:most heralding from the eastern seaboard (Maine, Long Island, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Nova Scotia). Good luck getting a seat at the bar during lunchtime or after work though when the place buzzes with the business crowd.