March 01, 2007
South African Ostrich Wings!
A friend of mine who is lucky enough to tote his wireless work around the world, has set up temporary shop in South Africa for the last few months. While he sends great photos of wildlife caught in spontaneous moments of hilarity (a baby bamboo raiding his glove compartment and making off with his lunch), poignancy (a pride of lions walking at nightfall with a baby lion), and terror (a literal army of angry-looking ostriches headed towards his lens--see picture!), I've really been on him to give me some insight into the food scene. Though he's been living mostly in Cape Town and its environs, he hasn't been doing much bar and restaurant hopping. However, he did mention one restaurant--and some dishes--that stood out to him.
In Mossel Baby, a pretty low-key waterfront town along the "garden route" (a 200-mile stretch of beach towns on the Western Cape of South Africa that attract both tourists and Cape Town denizens), he claims to have eaten his best meal at Jazzbury's restaurant. Before I get to the food, I'll say that the place does indeed look pretty jazzy. It's in an old stone house on the town's main street (rather rustic), but inside is thoroughly elegant with burnt orange walls, hardwood floors, sumptuous drapes, high ceilings, and fine table linens. There's an outdoor patio for alfresco dining and, as the name hints, live jazz.
The restaurant specializes in a typical South African meat: ostrich. Though this bird (that does not taste like chicken!)can sometimes be seen here on menus in the U.S., my friend claims that the Ostrich wings are a South African specialty, and I've never come across them here. Marinated with oyster sauce, chili, ginger, honey, and char-grilled, he says they are finger-lickin' good here. Other ostrich dishes on the menu include fried ostrich liver singed in butter and brandy, ostrich carpaccio and Biltong (dried, cured meat), ostrich fillet, and a mixed ostrich grill (sausage, fillet, liver, and wings)!
Though the wings were his hands down favorite, he also mentioned the Karoo lamb shank, marinated and slow-cooked with sun-dried prunes, grated ginger, and Calitzdorp port and the Cape Brandy Pudding (the only South African dessert he's truly enjoyed). What also seems interesting about this restaurant is its wine list, featuring bottles from the Klein Karoo winelands, an area that specializes in port production (hence the generously port-marinated dishes on the menu I suppose).
But lest we not forget we're in a beach town, there's lots of seafood too, like line fish of the day and black prawns in peri-peri sauce.
If you're planning a trip to South Africa anytime soon, and think you'll do the "Garden Route," this restaurant seems like a good introduction to regional specialties with gourmet preparation. Oh, and FYI, my friend also claims that the best part of the garden route are the 10 miles inland; most beautiful, unspoiled, and tourist-free.





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