When Californian Matthew Smith (name has been changed to protect privacy) first stumbled across Jeremy Townsend's "underground" dinner parties, he wasn't looking for a secret locale for a great meal. He was looking for a date. Under the "misc romance" section on Craigslist, he found a mysterious but intriguing ad. In a basement apartment in Oakland, Joe Townsend, a chef, and his brother, Jeremy, a poet, began inviting 5-30 strangers to their home to sit on pillows on the living room floor, eat a gourmet meal for a much smaller fee than what you'd pay for it in a restaurant, and make new friends. Oh, and there was impromptu entertainment as well: Mad Libs, haiku reading, dancing, music--a salon of sorts. This trend was also occurring in New York, Portland, and Hong Kong -- where a password and a scant amount of money could buy you more fun and food than a stodgy restaurant. Maybe you'd even meet the love of your life.
But then the word got out and health inspectors began cracking down on these illegal "culinary speakeasies." With no health code to comply with, the argument was that the public could potentially get sick at these loosey goosey supper clubs. People like Jeremy (who's evolving parties are called "The Ghetto Gourmet") had to go guerrilla--changing venues unpredictably throughout the Bay Area's lofts and art spaces, covering their tracks. Today, however, Ghetto Gourmet is legit, and therefore some may argue, less coveted. You simply log onto their website at www.theghet.com and sign up for the next event (a dinner might cost $50 and the entertainment's planned). They've also expanded to include locations in New York City's fashionable Tribeca neighborhood, Chicago, and California wine country. But there's still a sense of surprise. The chef's change (they've even had the likes of Chez Panisse chefs attend) the menus are always different (I saw an all vegetarian one coming up), and you won't know everyone you're breaking bread with. The same morphing of illegal to on the up and up also occurred at one of the first underground restaurants on the scene--"Ripe" in Portland, Oregon. Though it started as a twice monthly $20 "living room" supper club for a handpicked, in-the-know crowd, it's now a bona fide restaurant, albeit a good one.
Though authentic underground dining does still exist, it's tough to find these secret places. Advertising on sites like Craigslist could set them up for fines and lawsuits. The seven degrees of separation MO (kind of like TripConnect!) applies best--knowing someone who knows someone who knows someone--is just about the only way these days to get an invite. If you manage to snag one, you'll have to weigh the potential risks (how do I know the food was properly refrigerated, cooked, handled, etc.) vs. the perks (a homey, relaxed, adventurous evening that'll make for a great story).
Even been to--or hosted--an underground dinner? If so, share your stories with us! We promise not to make you give up your connection.
